I recently had the fortune of travelling to Ōtautahi Christchurch, in the South Island of New Zealand, for the National Flood Warning Symposium. I had a few hours up my sleeve to take a look around the city and see how it is getting on in recovering from the devastating earthquakes that began there in 2010.
If you are planning a visit to Christchurch and wish to raise your understanding of the earthquakes that impacted this beautiful city and it’s people, below are a few ideas of places to visit, along with some supporting information about the earthquakes.
The Canterbury Earthquakes
A large earthquake (M 7.1) struck Darfield in the Canterbury region at 4:35 am on 4 September 2010. One of many aftershocks (a M 6.2) occurred right beneath Christchurch city on 22 February 2011 at lunchtime. This was a devastating event, resulting in the loss of 185 lives, and causing catastrophic damage to the buildings and infrastructure in the city of 370,000 people (at the time). My heart goes out to all the people, families, and friends who were, and continue to be, affected by the earthquakes.
The day that the first earthquake occurred was the day that my partner and I were moving cities and into our first house, in Taupō (in the North Island of New Zealand). I remember hearing the news over the radio at the truck rental place in Hamilton, and feeling that dropping sensation and wave of shock that such a big earthquake had occurred here at home. We followed the news on the radio as we drove around the country and moved furniture into our new house. The earthquake was probably a prompting factor in my partner and I getting engaged that day, on the deck of our new house with a view of Lake Taupō and those gorgeous volcanoes.
The major aftershock in February the following year occurred whilst I was in the thick of figuring out my PhD studies, which was focused on volcanoes and communication. It was utterly devastating seeing the footage of what was happening, and strangely hard to believe when everything was so normal in the North Island. I heard about how many of my colleagues at GNS Science were heavily involved at the time, but it was hard to know what I could personally do to help.
In the following years, I was part of a research team that looked into how we can better communicate earthquake information, including forecasts for further aftershocks, based on the Canterbury experience. We heard about people’s earthquake and information experiences, and helped improve the information being delivered by GeoNet at the time, and for subsequent earthquakes around the country. I also led the writing of a journal paper that summarized the impacts of the 2010-2011 Canterbury earthquakes.
The initial earthquake occurred on the previously unidentified Greendale fault, at a depth of 11km. The 22 February aftershock was only 5km deep and was just one of many aftershocks in this sequence. It’s unfortunate placement beneath Christchurch city, and the timing of the shaking being at lunchtime, increased the exposure of people to the high intensity shaking and resulting building damage. Approximately 80% of the buildings in the Central Business District needed to be demolished after the earthquakes due to damage and not being strong enough to withstand future shaking. The economic impact of the earthquake sequence is estimated to be over NZ$40 billion.
Liquefaction occurred, which is when waterlogged sediments are shaken by the earthquake, separating the grains and reducing their ability to hold up loads, such as buildings, or to keep infrastructure such as pipes under the ground. Water was squeezed out of the gaps, leaving deep layers of mud, trapping vehicles and causing a huge mess. An army of volunteers of students and farmers and their machinery helped with the extensive clean up.
The people of Christchurch lived with power outages, portaloos (portable toilets) and home-made backyard toilets, with constant roadworks and reconstruction, as well as the occasional and sometimes significant aftershock. Their stories of community support, and initiatives to improve the lives of others, are inspiring.
There are still many signs of the earthquakes and their impacts on Christchurch, 14 years on. There are empty lots in the city where buildings have been pulled down, now filled with car parks and small spaces for people to spend their lunchbreaks. There are buildings still partially standing, waiting for a decision, funding, demolishing, or under reconstruction. This includes old stone buildings, newer tall buildings, bridges, walls, and of course, the iconic Christ Church Cathedral. There are also fantastic new facilities that have been built, such as the Te Pae convention centre, and the Margaret Mahy family playground.
Here are some of the sights you may wish to visit on your trip to Christchurch.
Quake City is a special exhibition from Canterbury Museum, describing the stories of the Canterbury Earthquakes. It takes visitors on a journey from the start of the earthquakes to the destruction and devastation, and onto the recovery.
On entering the exhibition, you can learn about the Māori legend of Rūaumoko, the god of earthquakes and volcanoes. Then you hear a rumbling sound, and the radio news being played saying that an earthquake had occurred in Christchurch. There is eerie music and overlaid voices, giving you a heightened feeling of concern. I liked seeing the timeline of historical earthquakes on the wall stretching back to 1844. To me, it emphasises that people find it easy to forget that earthquakes can occur in an area if there have not been any in living memory. But that doesn’t mean that they haven’t occurred in earlier times, and that they can’t occur in future.
I found it so sad to hear about people’s experiences of the initial shaking and what they did afterwards – the incredible uncertainty over whether their loved ones were ok, and what they should do, where they should go. I appreciated hearing from the same people again towards the end of the exhibit, to see how they were ten years on.
There was an excellent liquefaction simulator to learn about the movement of buildings and pipes in shaking ground. A lego building station was attractive to the younger visitors, where they could build the city as they want it to be.
There was information on the search and rescue efforts, on volunteers, and on the science behind the quakes. Infrastructure impacts were described, and the use of shipping containers, such as for retaining walls at areas at risk of further rockfalls. A ‘red stickered’ house that was taken apart by hand and entirely reused in imaginative ways was a fascinating display.
This is an emotional place to visit, but a crucial one if you’re wanting to know more about the earthquakes and the impact on the city.
The helpful lady at the desk also mentioned that the Ravenscar House Museum and Gallery is made out of the rubble from the earthquakes, which could be interesting to see.
Where: 299 Durham Street North, Christchurch
Find out more here: https://quakecity.co.nz/
The Christ Church Cathedral is literally the icon of the city. It was severely damaged during the earthquakes and has been undergoing restoration since May 2020. The aim is to reinstate the Anglican Cathedral, so it looks like it did before the earthquakes, but stronger and safer.
The area including the Cathedral is fenced off, but you can see the progress through several of the gates. It is worth a visit because of it’s significance to the city, and it’s centrally located in the town square.
While decisions were being made on the Cathedral’s reinstatement and it is being made safer, an incredible temporary cathedral was built – out of cardboard. Called the ‘Transitional Cathedral’, you can visit it and take a tour to learn about it’s meaning, history, and architecture.
Christ Church Cathedral:
Where: Cathedral Square, Christchurch
Find out more: https://christchurchcathedral.org.nz/
Transitional Cathedral:
Where: Corner Madras and Hereford Streets, Christchurch
Find out more: https://www.cardboardcathedral.org.nz/
The National Earthquake Memorial is a peaceful riverside landscaped area near the central city. It is a place to sit and reflect and remember those whose lives were impacted by the earthquakes. It is situated on either side of the gentle Ōtākaro/Avon River, with large leafy trees, and a long wall with the names of those who lost their lives in the Canterbury Earthquakes etched on it.
I visited at sunset, and the bare trees of winter were reflected on the river and made shadows on the light stone wall.
Where: Next to the Montreal Street bridge, alongside the Avon River, Christchurch
Find out more: https://www.canterburyearthquakememorial.co.nz/index.html
Street art
There is some incredible street art brightening up the sides of buildings in the city. These canvases are exposed due to the many empty lots that remain after buildings were demolished due to the earthquakes. One of my favourites is ‘Riverside Mural’, on the side of the Riverside Market building. It has a stunning 3D effect that takes some walking around at different angles to try to figure out.
Where: Check out this handy map of the art and take yourself on a walking tour: https://watchthisspace.org.nz/
Near Oi Manawa is an excellent collection of eateries and pubs – Riverside Market. I enjoyed the rosemary fries at Herba Gourmet. Pick one and reflect on your day and experiences in this beautiful city.
Where: Corner Lichfield St & Oxford Tce, Christchurch
Find out more: https://riverside.nz/
Other places to visit
While I unfortunately didn’t have much time to visit other places around Christchurch on my most recent trip, here are some more suggestions to work into your itinerary.
In the Christchurch Botanic Gardens is a mosaic sculpture of an armchair and ottoman, called Flora and Otto. These were apparently made by volunteers from china broken in the earthquakes. I haven’t been to visit them myself, but they sound interesting.
Where: Christchurch Botanic Gardens, Hagley Park
Coastal suburbs
If you can, drive or take the bus to Sumner Beach, and keep an eye out for the clever use of shipping containers alongside the road on the way there. For several years these protected the road from rocks that were coming down from the Redcliffs area. I haven’t been out there for a couple of years now, so I’m not sure if they are still there. Sadly, lives were lost from the rockfalls in this area.
Continue on to Lyttelton and the port. This area, and all over the Port Hills, experienced a lot of rockfalls and large boulders rolling down the hills. A terrifying thought. It’s a lovely little town, and nice to watch the ships doing their thing.
Areas northeast of Christchurch alongside the Avon River experienced liquefaction, and this area was ‘red zoned’, with houses being demolished and rebuilding restricted. The Council encourages visitors to the area to enjoy the walking trails and green spaces alongside the river. You can apparently even go foraging from the fruit and nut trees. When I last went, you could drive along perfectly normal city streets, with letterboxes and bushes on the sections, but no houses or fences. It was eerie indeed, and so sad to see the impacts on entire communities. By the sounds of things, nature is reclaiming the area, turning it “from red zone to green zone”.
C1 Espresso was rebuilt from the ashes of the February 2011 earthquake. It is recognized as being one of the first businesses to reopen in the central city, taking advantage of one of the few undamaged buildings in the area. It provided people with a space to come and gather, and feel a sense of community. It is a quirky and fun café, where you can get your burger and chips delivered at 140km/hr through pneumatic tubes. We took out kids there a few years ago and it was a real novelty.
Keep an eye out for the spherical lights - apparently they are from the ruined old town hall.
Where: Corner High & Tuam Streets, Christchurch
Find out more: https://www.c1espresso.co.nz/20-years
Preparing for earthquakes
You can find out more about earthquakes hazards on the GNS Science website, including the forecast for aftershocks in the Canterbury area.
The National Emergency Management Agency has information about what to do before, during and after an earthquake, with the key message being to drop, cover, and hold during shaking - and then evacuate to higher ground if you are near the coast, in case of a following tsunami.
When I’m travelling to an area that has a higher chance of earthquakes, this is what I do:
Before booking, check whether my hotel seems safe enough in terms of strength, and whether it’s in a tsunami zone
Make sure I pack comfortable walking shoes on the trip
At night in the hotel, put a change of clothes, a jacket and shoes, and key items such as my passport, in one place in case I need to evacuate in the night (also good for if the fire alarm goes off)
Make sure my water bottle is filled
Keep my phone charged
During the day, keep my important documents (such as passport) and phone with me all the time.
What else do you do to prepare, and where can you recommend we visit in Christchurch and surrounding areas? I'd love to know what you think - pop your comments below.
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